Slow Travel Guide - Where to Stay in Mexico City

Recently, we decided to do a slow stay in Mexico City to get to know the incredible city and truly experience the local essence. In order to do this, we didn’t just stay in one neighborhood, but we did a slow stay in multiple areas so we could get a sense of what the local lifestyle was like and even potentially consider moving here long-term. Here are the neighborhoods we resided in, how much we spent on rent, what was included and how our experience went.

While most travelers, creatives and young nomads are flocking from NYC or Madrid to Roma-Condesa we wanted to try a more local vibe first and rented an apartment in Colonia San Rafael in the Cuauhtémoc borough of Mexico City.

Colonia San Rafael

The historic neighborhood of San Rafael is actually one of the most iconic neighborhoods in Mexico City. It truly is a melting pot of time periods and cultures, a quality that is prevalent as you walk the streets. The feeling is definitely more of a residential vibe with long-term locals going about their regular routine that they’ve had for generations. Small shop owners take pride in their specialty with fresh markets, bakeries, cafes and more around every corner. Here, you say hi to your neighbor, help them carry their bags and chat about current events and can go blocks and blocks without seeing a tourist. At this time in 2023, it was a bit gritty at night, especially as a solo female walking around, but with my dog by my side, I quickly felt connected to the rhythm of real Mexico City life.

Our apartment was in a small brand new complex run by an amazing young entrepreneur with about 6 modern units in total. There was an electric keypad to enter, but no doorman or added security, nor an elevator but we only had to walk up two flights of stairs. We were in the fully furnished penthouse studio with an outdoor patio with rooftop access and paid $1300/month all included.

Since Alf was working at the incredible restaurant Em with Chef Lucho (now Michelin-acclaimed), living closer to Roma made more sense at the time. So for our second stay, we sublet a fully furnished artist apartment just two blocks from Parque México in Colonia Hipódromo in the Condesa area of Mexico City.

Colonia Condesa

The Roma-Condesa area is just as amazing as you may have heard and there are very obvious reasons why it has become increasingly popular on a global scale since we were there in 2023. The entire area is extremely walkable and vibrant, with every corner offering cafes, juice bars, restaurants, and creative studios. Morning walks to Parque Mexico became rituals, grabbing fresh coffee on the way, saying hi to all the dog-parents in the huge fenced in dog area, stumbling upon a dance class in the courtyard, and of course running into so many acclaimed people. It has that undeniable Brooklyn-meets-Mexico feel. Stylish, secure, and full of energy. Beyond the park, walking towards Roma Norte takes you through tree lined streets with book stores, vintage shops, and endless places to explore. The eclectic culture is palpable but at the same time it didn’t feel quite like traditional Mexico. This is quintessential modern Mexico and many people speak English, with tourist and nomads and creatives filling up all the trendy spots. This influx of foreigners is criticized by many but also part of the modernization that comes with more frequent travelers and social media. When you do go, be respectful, learn the local language, ask questions and don’t assume you can do or say whatever you want. Because sometimes thats the vibe you get when entitled travelers meet such an instagrammable city.

Our apartment was in an older apartment building, above the Montessori school with a doorman, elevator and many international residents. It was a fully furnished sublet from an older couple from NY who had been living and working there for a decade. It was beautifully decorated with their own art plus local artifacts, had a washer and dryer and a cute balcony space. We paid $1600/month for a 2-bedroom 2-bath, and the rent included everything plus weekly cleaning.

After Alf finished his stage at Em, we moved to the heart of the city in La Reforma.

La Reforma

Paseo de la Reforma is a major avenue in Mexico City and stretches from the downtown area to Chapultepec Park, connecting the historic center with the famous park and castle. Every Sunday the main boulevard is closed to car traffic from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m allowing pedestrians, cyclists, and families to freely enjoy the day known as "Paseo Dominical". Here we saw a lot more of the commercial side of Mexico City, people going to and from work, happy hours, drink specials, traffic and that working culture of modern Mexico. Here we were in a much more modern building, above a Starbuck with an immense lobby, multiple elevators, pool, spa, you name it. Our 1-bedroom 2-bath had a huge balcony that overlooked the entire city and we could chill and watch the flights coming in and out of Benito Juárez International Airport.

We didn’t spend that much time here, just used it as a hub as we began to pack and ship some of our things to move again! But it was a great change of pace, and a perfect way to experience a global capital with a fast-paced urban buzz. Plus the huge apartment was $900/month or $75/night with all the amenities and cleaning included.

TLDR

Each neighborhood of Mexico City offered something completely different, and I’m glad we experienced so many different microcosms. San Rafael was local and grounding. Condesa was social and inspiring. Juárez was urban and elevated. If you’re thinking about doing a longer stay in Mexico City, feel free to bop around like I did or hit me up for some more suggestions based on your budget!

Get in Touch

What is your favorite neighborhood in Mexico City? Did I miss it? Let me know on IG @alyssaya!

Don’t miss out on my Mexico City Art & Design Blog that explores all my favorite cultural sites to experience while visiting CDMX and my List of Best Restaurants in CDMX.

Don’t hesitate to DM me on instagram if you have any other questions about living like a local in Mexico City.

Thanks for reading. And as always . . . Be thoughtful. Stay kind.

♡ Alyssa